Burger King in Downtown Oaxaca: Tell Me it Isn't So

For a decade, famed Oaxacan chef Esperanzapreservation-worthy than the Zócalo? Were
Chavarria Blando operated Restaurante Quickly, aBurger King and the landlord in cahoots, to the extent
traditional Mexican eatery a block away from thethat they kept the plan secret? Was Mr. Toledo out
Zócalo on Macedonia Alcalá, theof town? Surely the landlord must feel that since
high-traffic pedestrian walkway. Not only lauded inOaxaca, a tourist mecca in part because of its
most Mexico travelogues, Quickly was patronized byold-world quaintness and ambience, has enabled him
local merchants, bank employees, street vendors andto lead a comfortable lifestyle, he accordingly owes a
artists, including on occasion Oaxaca´s currentduty to preserve even what the State and City
native son, famed artist Francisco Toledo who a fewhave apparently not mandated as a priority?
years ago spear-headed the successful opposition toApparently not.
McDonalds opening in the Zócalo.There's enough blame to go around. I don't fault
Without apparent opposition, in mid-September, 2005,Burger King, my own leftist anti-capitalist politics
Burger King unveiled its signage at M. Alcaláhaving evaporated decades ago. It's greed winning
100B, the former Quickly locale, after havingout over altruism and pride in one's city, together
seemingly clandestinely completed its renovation ofwith a lackadaisical, to be generous, government.
the premises. A week earlier there was no clue thatThere is a solution, even though it would mean yet
the fast-food giant was set to open.another layer of bureaucracy...but this one well worth
The landlord, a Oaxacan gentleman of means withthe cost and effort. Every business that proposes
other downtown holdings, had been increasing Ms.opening its doors in the Centro Histórico
Chavarria's rent, significantly. The last straw was theought to submit an application to the municipality
demand for a 5000 peso per month increase to takeanswering a simple question: is there a parent
effect in January, 2004. She could no longer affordcompany, affiliate, subsidiary or franchise either
to stay in business...the late nineties earthquake and 9American owned or otherwise with multi-national or
11 had already taken their toll, and continuously raisingextra-Mexico interests? All negative responses would
menu prices was neither what she wanted norresult in rubber stamping. Otherwise the request
figured the market could bear.would go to a sitting panel comprised of a broad
Word on the street was with Quickly gone, thediversity of individuals. Without a unanimous decision,
landlord was now looking to double the previous rent.public hearings would be held.
After several months, Apetito, a sterile fast-foodSam's Club, Pizza Hut, Sears and the rest have a
establishment opened. I never saw many people inplace in our city, and to that extent the area outside
the place, for good reason. During the summer ofthe downtown core known as Plaza del Valle
2005 it closed its doors, presumably as a result of aprovides an important function. But if what's
lack of business and the landlord misreading thehappening now is not checked, tourist dollars will
extent to which his yearning for top dollar would payevaporate and we won't have patrons with funds to
dividends. A couple of months later voilá, Thesupport such enterprise, anywhere. The next time
Whopper appeared.we pass by a downtown building under renovation or
So what happened? Should we not be looking toconstruction, we should worry that Wal-Mart might
protect the entire Centro Histórico? Is thebe set to open.
Anador Turística that much less